Parts Used
LED RED 35000MCD
Emitted Colour: Red
Vf (V) Max: 2.6
if mA: 75
Vf (V) Type 2.2
Electrolyte Capacitor x 2
Radial 25V 33uF
D1 1N4001
50V Silicone Diode
1 Amp
D2 iN4001
50V Silicone Diode
1 Amp
D3 Zener Diode
5v1 1 Watt
R1
LED RED 35000MCD
Emitted Colour: Red
Vf (V) Max: 2.6
if mA: 75
Vf (V) Type 2.2
Electrolyte Capacitor x 2
Radial 25V 33uF
D1 1N4001
50V Silicone Diode
1 Amp
D2 iN4001
50V Silicone Diode
1 Amp
D3 Zener Diode
5v1 1 Watt
R1
100R +/- 5% 0.5 Watts
R2
330R +/- 5% 0.5 Watts 
R3
1K +/- 5% 0.5 Watts
Voltage Regulator LM317T
Output Current in Excess 1.5A
Output Adj 1.2V - 37V
Jumper Wires
2cm x 3
How it works:
This Power Circuit is very similar to a Voltage Regulator circuit we constructed, apart from a few new components such as the Zener Diode and a different type of regulator. 12V is supplied to the positive rail and enters the input pin of the regulator.There is a 0.7 VD across D1 from being in forward bias which drops the voltage to 11.3. D2 in reverse bias prevents any current flowing through it which will prevent the components from being destroyed if they are connected the wrong way. The zener diode and capacitors are unneccesary and don't play any role into regulating the voltage but as filters for the regulator. The Resistors in the circuit determine how much voltage will be regulated from the output by using Vout = Vref (1+R3/R2). If Vout has to equal 5v, I could use any combination of resistors, as long as one is 3x higher then the other. In this case I used a 1k and a 330R. With this resistance I should now get an output of 5v, which can now pass through my 110R and LED, lighting it up. This circuit has 3 wires at the end of the Positve 12v supply, the output of 5V and Earth. Meaning I can power anything with my board with 5V, when connected to a 12V supply or more.
Fault Finding:
Originally I tried copying my circuit diagram as close to the schamatic as possible in order to minimize confusion as to where parts would go and how much board I would need. With an almost replica circuit diagram I could feel convinced my circuit would work. However when it came to constructing the board, some problems occoured when my board was short circuiting due to bad soldering. After cleaning the solder up, I wanted to check the condition of the Voltage Regulator. As I tryed heating up the board up in order for me to remove it, I accidently broke the Output pin on the regulator, and stripped all the copper around it, creating an open circuit. I could of relocated my regulator by use of jumper leads, but decided to go back to the drawing board and create a more spaced circuit, to prevent components shorting out. With my new, more efficient drawing, I then began constructing and did not run into any problems. Now that my board was complete I could test that the output of my Regulator would match the required output on the Circuit Diagram. With my board connected to a 12Vs, I measured the output with my Voltmeter and recorded 5.10V, Meaning the experiment was a success.
Voltage Regulator LM317T
Output Current in Excess 1.5A
Output Adj 1.2V - 37V
Jumper Wires
2cm x 3
How it works:
This Power Circuit is very similar to a Voltage Regulator circuit we constructed, apart from a few new components such as the Zener Diode and a different type of regulator. 12V is supplied to the positive rail and enters the input pin of the regulator.There is a 0.7 VD across D1 from being in forward bias which drops the voltage to 11.3. D2 in reverse bias prevents any current flowing through it which will prevent the components from being destroyed if they are connected the wrong way. The zener diode and capacitors are unneccesary and don't play any role into regulating the voltage but as filters for the regulator. The Resistors in the circuit determine how much voltage will be regulated from the output by using Vout = Vref (1+R3/R2). If Vout has to equal 5v, I could use any combination of resistors, as long as one is 3x higher then the other. In this case I used a 1k and a 330R. With this resistance I should now get an output of 5v, which can now pass through my 110R and LED, lighting it up. This circuit has 3 wires at the end of the Positve 12v supply, the output of 5V and Earth. Meaning I can power anything with my board with 5V, when connected to a 12V supply or more.
Fault Finding:
Originally I tried copying my circuit diagram as close to the schamatic as possible in order to minimize confusion as to where parts would go and how much board I would need. With an almost replica circuit diagram I could feel convinced my circuit would work. However when it came to constructing the board, some problems occoured when my board was short circuiting due to bad soldering. After cleaning the solder up, I wanted to check the condition of the Voltage Regulator. As I tryed heating up the board up in order for me to remove it, I accidently broke the Output pin on the regulator, and stripped all the copper around it, creating an open circuit. I could of relocated my regulator by use of jumper leads, but decided to go back to the drawing board and create a more spaced circuit, to prevent components shorting out. With my new, more efficient drawing, I then began constructing and did not run into any problems. Now that my board was complete I could test that the output of my Regulator would match the required output on the Circuit Diagram. With my board connected to a 12Vs, I measured the output with my Voltmeter and recorded 5.10V, Meaning the experiment was a success.
Where is the circuit diagram?
ReplyDeleteAre you sure D3 is a 5V1? What is the wattage rating?
Where is D2 on your Lochmaster board?
What does D2 and D3 do in the circuit?